Monday, May 17, 2010

King of the Juice


I have always liked juice. Really liked juice. So having been to South America my mind has been totally blown away by the virtually free (.50 to $1.00) juices that lay the juice available in the states to shame.

Rank by country:

1. Colombia - Consistently good juices, maracuya, papaya, guayava, piña, limonada, lulo, guanabana, mango, moro, melon, banano, and more.

2. Peru - The mercados are the place to get juice in Peru, where you´ll find rows of juice ladys ready to mix up any concoction you can think of. Even a frog smoothie, consisting of a freshly killed frog, smashed on the edge of the counter, skinned alive, boiled alive then thrown into the blender with banana, grains, honey and some piña juice to take the edge off.

3. Bolivia - Juices are to be found near mercados, sold by street vendors. The juices here are loaded up with sugar and topped off with some puffed rice for "health".

4. Argentina - They don´t drink juice. Or eat vegatables aside from mashed potatoes or squash.









OK.

Now ranking by city.

1. Cusco, Peru (Altiplano) (anything your heart desires that can be juiced)

2. Taganga, Colombia (Caribe) (iced juices to take the edge off of the heat)

3. Leticia, Colombia (Amazon) (all those crazy amazon fruits blended up just right)

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

This is Amazon Country.



While in the Amazon Basin Kathy and I were relegated to the safe parts, namely Leticia and it`s "eco conscious" neighbor Peurto Nariño. Leticia is a laid back river town with a million motorcycles and maybe more scooters. Of course juice a plenty and my first experience of a Colombian churro. Which is a ring of bread stuffed with caramel banana delicousness that is not conveyable in words, particularily if you get one while it is still hot. It is funny because Leticia felt particularly safe everywhere we went even though we were told to be pàrticularily careful. It is in full due to the strong military presence in Leticia and the surrounding area. Hey, Leticia even has its own brand of soda!

To get to Puerto Nariño we took a speed boat back towards Iquitos about 80km or so. This little town has a ton a character. It has no roads! Simple sidewalks to get everywhere. It is small enough so it`s okay. Walking around town we saw a bunch of neat stuff like grains being toasted, and a craftsman building a new canoe. We also saw a huge militray presence and understand why this area of the Amazon is safe for tourists.

The part of the Rio Amazonas and surrounding channels that Puerto Narino sits on is home of the fabled pink dolphin. Our initial attempt to see the dolphins included us paddling a huge canoe on our own out into the great wild yonder. But after paddling to town and back we realized that we suck at paddling and were already tired after the half hour jaunt. And on top of that everyone said that is was "only" about 4 hours there and back. So, Kathy and I decided to hire a guide to take us out with a motorized canoe, but dolphin spotting is pretty hard. Kathy did see a dorsal fin though, and we both heard them come to the surface to breath. My favorite part of the tour was the short cut through the forest.

What is cuter than kittens? Kittens and monkeys. At Las Casas de Friar the owner had an abundance of pets including 3 kittens, 1 dog, a big bird, and two MONKEYS! I can`t get enough of these little bastards, Matteo and Pedro. The kittens are nameless. And the dogs name is Satcha, short for Satcha NO! As she was always getting demerits for something or other. The owner Fri is also the principle of the academy that the hostel is built on. Calling Casa de Fri a hostel is short selling it, as it has a great lookout with a hammock, breakfast, and most importantly monkeys.
The monkeys are ridiculous. They bite everything to see if it is food. Then they fall in love with your wife. If you try to remove them from her shoulders they go bananas, screaming and pulling on everything and biting your hand as hard as possible, which isn`t very hard. And when you are relaxing they come up and pull your armpit hair. But for some reason I love them. There so cute. I want one. They have little fingerprints if you look closely!

Take the Slow Boat.

Kathy and I have done the Amazon Basin. Or at least a very, very small part of it. After our stay at the Rainbow community 50km outside of Iquitos, Peru we set to the rio, headed east towards Leticia, Colombia. Our trip was a two day lesson on how to be a sardine. The ship itself had 3 levels and was packed top to bottom with bodies and cargo. Kathy and I got a cabin, but its was only big enough for our bags. We were early, so we set up the hammocks and waited for the rest of the passengers to arrive. WOW! It was so packed, it was kind of unbelievable how the hammocks were being strung up. And we thought we were safe, until the last minute. This rather large man strung up his hammock right over mine. All day I waited, hoping that maybe he had a small child that would go into it, but no. Promptly at dusk I was treated to a vertical spooning session that would last into the early morn. At night, rather unexpectedly it got pretty cold. And on the next evening we used our Bolivian Polar blanket to keep us warm. The ship made a ton of calls to port and many of the passengers got off as we got closer to Leticia. So I only got one night of snuggle time with Bluto.Along with the scenerly and the fact that they fed us three time a day it was a great way to travel and definately an interesting experience.

These are the things I lost I`ve lost, these are the things.

Jon
2 Hats
1 Knife
2 Button up Shirts
1 Pair of Sunglasses
1 Zebra Pen
2 Pairs of Socks
1 Bag of Floss Picks

"But aint nobody stole nuttin from me!"

Kathy
1 Pair Undies
1 Bathing Suit (Stolen, in two separte occurances!)
1 Headlamp (Stolen)
1 Pair of Undies (Stolen)

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

What lies at the end of the rainbow?




The second farm Jon and I had an opportunity to be at, wasn´t a "farm" in the traditional sense. It was actually a newly established Rainbow Community that also wanted to live sustainably. While the brother who owned the land had it set aside for about 10 years, it was only a year ago that the community was established with a handful of likeminded people. On 80 hectares of jungle land, there were a handful of living quarters near the river, a handful of hectares designated for cultivation, and the rest was intented to be left as a preserve.

Most of the permanent members leave the community for stretches of time to either handle VISA issues (only two of the seven members we met were Peruvian) or go on other "missions". Because the community is not yet sustainable, members need to have a source of income outside of the community to chip in for food and other supplies. They also grew enough Sugar Cane to make syrup, which gets sold in the town every week or so.

The primary concern for almost all members of the community was to live harmoniously away from traditional senses of society, and setting up and maintaining a sustainable permaculture was secondary. While it was seen as an important means of being able to live according to their vision, so was having time to meditate, do yoga, fast... Needless to say, the members were a group of super hippies. Many of the common home comforts were of little importance, or deliberately cut out of their lifestyle:

1. All living spaces were semi-comunal. If an individual built a home, it was understood that it would be used as living quarters for guests and other members if the owner is away. "Homes" were not much more than structures meant to keep out of rain and sun. There were no walls. (This brought up another question of how members are able to have intimate moments, but we never found out the answer.)
2. No soaps. While there was a means of using detergents if one wished (away from the river), the members opted for other means of disinfection. Mud for skin and hair (careful not to do it too often, as it can dry out your skin), and ash for dishes and the kitchen area.
3. No electricity. While every member took advantage of electrical conveniences while away from the community, it was generally felt that it would be a bad idea to have within the grounds. One reason was that even with clean generated energy, a battery would be required, with is NOT clean. The second reason was the general idea that electrowaves and electromagnetism does us more harm than is worth the convenience.
4. No running water, nor a "clean" source of water. There was no well. Though at one point, a new member suggested that everyone contribute to have one dug, in the end, no one wanted to pay into having one put in. Before we left, however, a very ambitious WWOOFer decided to start the project of digging one by hand. Once it started, others began to help with the process. We did have basins that were used for convenient dish washing, which got emptied and refilled from the river whenever they got too dirty. It was obvious, however, that standards for "dirty" water differed drastically.
5. Food. This was a big one for us. For many of the permanent residents, food had strong connections with spiritual health and a means of exercising discipline. All dishes had to be made without onions, garlic, salt, or sugar. (Some members had additional requests such as cutting all seeds out of cucumbers, but this was more about preference.) We grew accostomed to eating raw garlic with meals and adding salt to EVERYTHING. Unfortunately, we never quite got used to eating 2 or 3 bananas before heading out to the jungle to clear cut an area (to "liberate" the banana trees) with machetes for 4 hours with a short break for more bananas. The fruit tasted wonderful, but digested so quickly we were constantly running out of energy.
Needless to say, clothing also highly optional.

The idea of this community is to demand nothing from each other, and for each to contribute according to their will and desire. This was extended to all guests and WWOOFers alike. We were welcome to meditate, learn, fast, explore, and work as we chose. The only prevalent ideas is that all things are communal, and all meals are shared together. Prior to each meal, which was prepared by everyone in turn, we all held hands, sang songs of thankfulness or joy, Ohmed, then ate together.

...and here comes the hard part...

Despite the beautiful vision of the members there, the reality of the community was not so harmonious. When Jon and I arrived, it was right in the middle of a rather heated discussion, the subject of which had made many WWOOFers feel somewhat unwelcome, which was followed by a couple of incidents that made us feel both uncomfortable and a little like calling "bullshit". (To be fair, these incidents were with people who later turned out not to be part of the permanent community.) Then every day thereafter, we witnessed bickering or discussions that were obiously stifling feelings of resentment.

We decided that finances be damned, this was a bad place for us with negative energy that was affecting our daily moods as well. We decided to leave as soon as the water levels dropped.

One day, the bickering escalated to a full-scale yelling match with brothers standing nose to nose, and statements like "Fuck YOU, brother!". Jon had, at one point, to sit them down like children in a time-out for fear that things might actually become physical. ...This incident ended with one of the newly committed members leaving, uncertain if he will ever return.

By this point, for various reasons, all permanent members had left to take care of business in the city or with immigration, except for Arnoud, who is the founding member of the community. And suddenly, it was a magical place, full of harmony, singing, cooperation... Our last 2 days in the community were great, and we finally began to feel like we had hoped to feel for the previous 2 weeks.

We decided to leave as planned, despite the change for the better. While it´s our hope that the return of the members brings back a more positive energy than had been there before, we didn´t want to wait to find out.

At this point, I would like to add that Arnoud is an amazingly centered person, who has exactly the kind of motivation, patience and openness that would make such a community work. There were a few other members who also displayed the same positive energy, and we have reason to believe that a particular incident prior to our arrival sparked a downward spiral of hostility that is not usually present there.

We did come away from the experience with some developed ideas about communes and what we feel is required to function well. Bottom line, it´s a very romantic idea, but difficult to execute and more so with the type of personalities that are typically attracted to such a lifestyle.


...Oh, and this is the toughest cat you´ll ever meet! She catches lizards and gobbles them down in just a few seconds. Also a sweetheart.

¡Libros! ...uno mas...

I forgot one book off the list...

Dharma Bums - Jack Kerouac
Jon read this one and liked it, and even suggested that it may be a Kerouac that I might end up enjoying. We may never know the truth, since Jon then later traded it for "How it Works" with a girl who may be on a mission to avoid settling back into society for good. (She went on a post graduation trip after college, and when it was over decided to leave for another trip, being unable to bear the idea of settling down and getting a job.)

Thursday, April 1, 2010

¡Libros!

For better or worse, there is a ton of time to kill when on a 6 month travel... The following is a list of the boos we have read and reactions. Please keep in mind that for most of our trip, we are at the mercy of the local book exchange and their small selection of books in English.

1. Drifters - James A. Michener
We picked this one up in our first hostel, and it stayed with us until we got into Argentina. (It wasn´t very good, and our first month was very ambitious and we spent almost all of our time sight seeing.) Jon was unable to finish it when it started to become increasingly preachy and a bit trite. For lack of a better choice, I stuck it through to the end, but can´t say that I´m a better person for it. It is nice, however, to read a book about travelers whilst traveling...

2. Set This House on Fire - William Styron
Jon liked it, but for large sections I wanted to screm "SHUT UP!". The cover said something about being Doestoyevskian, but I argue that it takes more than being whiney over nothing to adequately meet that criteria.

3. Nobody´s Fool - Richard Russo
A great easy read with some laugh-out loud humor. The characters were real enough, and I found myself frequently wondering if I were going to grow into one of the crazy old ladies in the novel. Also, smart-allecy complainers have always had a soft spot in both our hearts.

4. Good Soldier Svek - Jaroslav Hasek
A good recommendation, though the story of the author might be more entertaining than the novel itself. Intended to be a 4 part story, the author died after writing only the first 3. As good a read as it was, it´s almost not worth the sudden brick wall you hit at the end. Apparently, all subsequent attempts to finish the story by friends of the author have all been tragic.

5. A Most Wanted Man - John Le Carre
If you´re looking for an easy airplane read, this is it. In face, it´s probably currently in the bookshops in your local airport. A decent read, though nothing to really talk about.

6. Prey - Michael Chriton
Facing a book exchange comprising of mostly Daniel Steele and popular fiction, we decided to try out the guy who at least does some research into his novels. Entertaining.

7. Illearth Wars - Stephen R. Donaldson
We also decided to try out a fantasy novel. Again, the cover promised a read comparable to Tolken (pretty high bar), and we were sorely dissapointed. Though neither of us have read much fantasy, we´re pretty sure that it was overly contrived and cliche even for a fantasy novel. The worst part is that it´s the 2nd in a trilogy, and now I have a small burning curiosity to know how it all ends.

8. State of Fear - Michael Chriton
We decided to go back to the easy read by an author we enjoyed. We didn´t know at the time that the Fox News station had been widely promoting this novel because it casts much doubt on the "certainty" of global warming. Having read the novel (which is again incredibly well researched), it seemed to us more to be a warning against "politicized science" and the tendency for the masses to get their scientific information from the media and not from scientific journals. In fact, much of what he criticised about the media seems to be exactly the kind of practices used by Fox... can we say fear mongerers?

9. ...a historical fiction based during the 100 years war...
Jon was the only one to read this one. Right about now, I had taken up knitting to pass the time. Apparently historical fictions are still just popular fiction, but with a little more research to paint a nice backdrop on the drama.

10. The Dragons´Nine Sons - Chris Roberson
A sci-fi fantasy that takes place in a future where the Chinese and Mexicans (actually, descendants of Incas who were never defeated by the Spanish) wage war in space. Jon was the only one to read it. "Pretty much garbage."

11. How It Works - ??
Printed in the 60s, it´s a collection of explanations of well... how things work. The best part was that it voiced the enthusiasm and optimism of the time. It would occasionally note that while the research was far off, no doubt that by 2000 we would all be riding around in hovercrafts.

We gave in and ended up purchasing some new books...
12. The War of the End of the World - Mario Vargas Llosa
Currently being read by Jon. So far, loving it.

13. One Hundred Years of Solitude - Gabriel Garcia Marquez
Currently being read by Kathy. So far, loving it.

I´m sure that we´ll end up with at least another couple under our belt before the trip is done. Happy reading everyone!