Monday, May 17, 2010

King of the Juice


I have always liked juice. Really liked juice. So having been to South America my mind has been totally blown away by the virtually free (.50 to $1.00) juices that lay the juice available in the states to shame.

Rank by country:

1. Colombia - Consistently good juices, maracuya, papaya, guayava, piña, limonada, lulo, guanabana, mango, moro, melon, banano, and more.

2. Peru - The mercados are the place to get juice in Peru, where you´ll find rows of juice ladys ready to mix up any concoction you can think of. Even a frog smoothie, consisting of a freshly killed frog, smashed on the edge of the counter, skinned alive, boiled alive then thrown into the blender with banana, grains, honey and some piña juice to take the edge off.

3. Bolivia - Juices are to be found near mercados, sold by street vendors. The juices here are loaded up with sugar and topped off with some puffed rice for "health".

4. Argentina - They don´t drink juice. Or eat vegatables aside from mashed potatoes or squash.









OK.

Now ranking by city.

1. Cusco, Peru (Altiplano) (anything your heart desires that can be juiced)

2. Taganga, Colombia (Caribe) (iced juices to take the edge off of the heat)

3. Leticia, Colombia (Amazon) (all those crazy amazon fruits blended up just right)

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

This is Amazon Country.



While in the Amazon Basin Kathy and I were relegated to the safe parts, namely Leticia and it`s "eco conscious" neighbor Peurto Nariño. Leticia is a laid back river town with a million motorcycles and maybe more scooters. Of course juice a plenty and my first experience of a Colombian churro. Which is a ring of bread stuffed with caramel banana delicousness that is not conveyable in words, particularily if you get one while it is still hot. It is funny because Leticia felt particularly safe everywhere we went even though we were told to be pàrticularily careful. It is in full due to the strong military presence in Leticia and the surrounding area. Hey, Leticia even has its own brand of soda!

To get to Puerto Nariño we took a speed boat back towards Iquitos about 80km or so. This little town has a ton a character. It has no roads! Simple sidewalks to get everywhere. It is small enough so it`s okay. Walking around town we saw a bunch of neat stuff like grains being toasted, and a craftsman building a new canoe. We also saw a huge militray presence and understand why this area of the Amazon is safe for tourists.

The part of the Rio Amazonas and surrounding channels that Puerto Narino sits on is home of the fabled pink dolphin. Our initial attempt to see the dolphins included us paddling a huge canoe on our own out into the great wild yonder. But after paddling to town and back we realized that we suck at paddling and were already tired after the half hour jaunt. And on top of that everyone said that is was "only" about 4 hours there and back. So, Kathy and I decided to hire a guide to take us out with a motorized canoe, but dolphin spotting is pretty hard. Kathy did see a dorsal fin though, and we both heard them come to the surface to breath. My favorite part of the tour was the short cut through the forest.

What is cuter than kittens? Kittens and monkeys. At Las Casas de Friar the owner had an abundance of pets including 3 kittens, 1 dog, a big bird, and two MONKEYS! I can`t get enough of these little bastards, Matteo and Pedro. The kittens are nameless. And the dogs name is Satcha, short for Satcha NO! As she was always getting demerits for something or other. The owner Fri is also the principle of the academy that the hostel is built on. Calling Casa de Fri a hostel is short selling it, as it has a great lookout with a hammock, breakfast, and most importantly monkeys.
The monkeys are ridiculous. They bite everything to see if it is food. Then they fall in love with your wife. If you try to remove them from her shoulders they go bananas, screaming and pulling on everything and biting your hand as hard as possible, which isn`t very hard. And when you are relaxing they come up and pull your armpit hair. But for some reason I love them. There so cute. I want one. They have little fingerprints if you look closely!

Take the Slow Boat.

Kathy and I have done the Amazon Basin. Or at least a very, very small part of it. After our stay at the Rainbow community 50km outside of Iquitos, Peru we set to the rio, headed east towards Leticia, Colombia. Our trip was a two day lesson on how to be a sardine. The ship itself had 3 levels and was packed top to bottom with bodies and cargo. Kathy and I got a cabin, but its was only big enough for our bags. We were early, so we set up the hammocks and waited for the rest of the passengers to arrive. WOW! It was so packed, it was kind of unbelievable how the hammocks were being strung up. And we thought we were safe, until the last minute. This rather large man strung up his hammock right over mine. All day I waited, hoping that maybe he had a small child that would go into it, but no. Promptly at dusk I was treated to a vertical spooning session that would last into the early morn. At night, rather unexpectedly it got pretty cold. And on the next evening we used our Bolivian Polar blanket to keep us warm. The ship made a ton of calls to port and many of the passengers got off as we got closer to Leticia. So I only got one night of snuggle time with Bluto.Along with the scenerly and the fact that they fed us three time a day it was a great way to travel and definately an interesting experience.

These are the things I lost I`ve lost, these are the things.

Jon
2 Hats
1 Knife
2 Button up Shirts
1 Pair of Sunglasses
1 Zebra Pen
2 Pairs of Socks
1 Bag of Floss Picks

"But aint nobody stole nuttin from me!"

Kathy
1 Pair Undies
1 Bathing Suit (Stolen, in two separte occurances!)
1 Headlamp (Stolen)
1 Pair of Undies (Stolen)

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

What lies at the end of the rainbow?




The second farm Jon and I had an opportunity to be at, wasn´t a "farm" in the traditional sense. It was actually a newly established Rainbow Community that also wanted to live sustainably. While the brother who owned the land had it set aside for about 10 years, it was only a year ago that the community was established with a handful of likeminded people. On 80 hectares of jungle land, there were a handful of living quarters near the river, a handful of hectares designated for cultivation, and the rest was intented to be left as a preserve.

Most of the permanent members leave the community for stretches of time to either handle VISA issues (only two of the seven members we met were Peruvian) or go on other "missions". Because the community is not yet sustainable, members need to have a source of income outside of the community to chip in for food and other supplies. They also grew enough Sugar Cane to make syrup, which gets sold in the town every week or so.

The primary concern for almost all members of the community was to live harmoniously away from traditional senses of society, and setting up and maintaining a sustainable permaculture was secondary. While it was seen as an important means of being able to live according to their vision, so was having time to meditate, do yoga, fast... Needless to say, the members were a group of super hippies. Many of the common home comforts were of little importance, or deliberately cut out of their lifestyle:

1. All living spaces were semi-comunal. If an individual built a home, it was understood that it would be used as living quarters for guests and other members if the owner is away. "Homes" were not much more than structures meant to keep out of rain and sun. There were no walls. (This brought up another question of how members are able to have intimate moments, but we never found out the answer.)
2. No soaps. While there was a means of using detergents if one wished (away from the river), the members opted for other means of disinfection. Mud for skin and hair (careful not to do it too often, as it can dry out your skin), and ash for dishes and the kitchen area.
3. No electricity. While every member took advantage of electrical conveniences while away from the community, it was generally felt that it would be a bad idea to have within the grounds. One reason was that even with clean generated energy, a battery would be required, with is NOT clean. The second reason was the general idea that electrowaves and electromagnetism does us more harm than is worth the convenience.
4. No running water, nor a "clean" source of water. There was no well. Though at one point, a new member suggested that everyone contribute to have one dug, in the end, no one wanted to pay into having one put in. Before we left, however, a very ambitious WWOOFer decided to start the project of digging one by hand. Once it started, others began to help with the process. We did have basins that were used for convenient dish washing, which got emptied and refilled from the river whenever they got too dirty. It was obvious, however, that standards for "dirty" water differed drastically.
5. Food. This was a big one for us. For many of the permanent residents, food had strong connections with spiritual health and a means of exercising discipline. All dishes had to be made without onions, garlic, salt, or sugar. (Some members had additional requests such as cutting all seeds out of cucumbers, but this was more about preference.) We grew accostomed to eating raw garlic with meals and adding salt to EVERYTHING. Unfortunately, we never quite got used to eating 2 or 3 bananas before heading out to the jungle to clear cut an area (to "liberate" the banana trees) with machetes for 4 hours with a short break for more bananas. The fruit tasted wonderful, but digested so quickly we were constantly running out of energy.
Needless to say, clothing also highly optional.

The idea of this community is to demand nothing from each other, and for each to contribute according to their will and desire. This was extended to all guests and WWOOFers alike. We were welcome to meditate, learn, fast, explore, and work as we chose. The only prevalent ideas is that all things are communal, and all meals are shared together. Prior to each meal, which was prepared by everyone in turn, we all held hands, sang songs of thankfulness or joy, Ohmed, then ate together.

...and here comes the hard part...

Despite the beautiful vision of the members there, the reality of the community was not so harmonious. When Jon and I arrived, it was right in the middle of a rather heated discussion, the subject of which had made many WWOOFers feel somewhat unwelcome, which was followed by a couple of incidents that made us feel both uncomfortable and a little like calling "bullshit". (To be fair, these incidents were with people who later turned out not to be part of the permanent community.) Then every day thereafter, we witnessed bickering or discussions that were obiously stifling feelings of resentment.

We decided that finances be damned, this was a bad place for us with negative energy that was affecting our daily moods as well. We decided to leave as soon as the water levels dropped.

One day, the bickering escalated to a full-scale yelling match with brothers standing nose to nose, and statements like "Fuck YOU, brother!". Jon had, at one point, to sit them down like children in a time-out for fear that things might actually become physical. ...This incident ended with one of the newly committed members leaving, uncertain if he will ever return.

By this point, for various reasons, all permanent members had left to take care of business in the city or with immigration, except for Arnoud, who is the founding member of the community. And suddenly, it was a magical place, full of harmony, singing, cooperation... Our last 2 days in the community were great, and we finally began to feel like we had hoped to feel for the previous 2 weeks.

We decided to leave as planned, despite the change for the better. While it´s our hope that the return of the members brings back a more positive energy than had been there before, we didn´t want to wait to find out.

At this point, I would like to add that Arnoud is an amazingly centered person, who has exactly the kind of motivation, patience and openness that would make such a community work. There were a few other members who also displayed the same positive energy, and we have reason to believe that a particular incident prior to our arrival sparked a downward spiral of hostility that is not usually present there.

We did come away from the experience with some developed ideas about communes and what we feel is required to function well. Bottom line, it´s a very romantic idea, but difficult to execute and more so with the type of personalities that are typically attracted to such a lifestyle.


...Oh, and this is the toughest cat you´ll ever meet! She catches lizards and gobbles them down in just a few seconds. Also a sweetheart.

¡Libros! ...uno mas...

I forgot one book off the list...

Dharma Bums - Jack Kerouac
Jon read this one and liked it, and even suggested that it may be a Kerouac that I might end up enjoying. We may never know the truth, since Jon then later traded it for "How it Works" with a girl who may be on a mission to avoid settling back into society for good. (She went on a post graduation trip after college, and when it was over decided to leave for another trip, being unable to bear the idea of settling down and getting a job.)

Thursday, April 1, 2010

¡Libros!

For better or worse, there is a ton of time to kill when on a 6 month travel... The following is a list of the boos we have read and reactions. Please keep in mind that for most of our trip, we are at the mercy of the local book exchange and their small selection of books in English.

1. Drifters - James A. Michener
We picked this one up in our first hostel, and it stayed with us until we got into Argentina. (It wasn´t very good, and our first month was very ambitious and we spent almost all of our time sight seeing.) Jon was unable to finish it when it started to become increasingly preachy and a bit trite. For lack of a better choice, I stuck it through to the end, but can´t say that I´m a better person for it. It is nice, however, to read a book about travelers whilst traveling...

2. Set This House on Fire - William Styron
Jon liked it, but for large sections I wanted to screm "SHUT UP!". The cover said something about being Doestoyevskian, but I argue that it takes more than being whiney over nothing to adequately meet that criteria.

3. Nobody´s Fool - Richard Russo
A great easy read with some laugh-out loud humor. The characters were real enough, and I found myself frequently wondering if I were going to grow into one of the crazy old ladies in the novel. Also, smart-allecy complainers have always had a soft spot in both our hearts.

4. Good Soldier Svek - Jaroslav Hasek
A good recommendation, though the story of the author might be more entertaining than the novel itself. Intended to be a 4 part story, the author died after writing only the first 3. As good a read as it was, it´s almost not worth the sudden brick wall you hit at the end. Apparently, all subsequent attempts to finish the story by friends of the author have all been tragic.

5. A Most Wanted Man - John Le Carre
If you´re looking for an easy airplane read, this is it. In face, it´s probably currently in the bookshops in your local airport. A decent read, though nothing to really talk about.

6. Prey - Michael Chriton
Facing a book exchange comprising of mostly Daniel Steele and popular fiction, we decided to try out the guy who at least does some research into his novels. Entertaining.

7. Illearth Wars - Stephen R. Donaldson
We also decided to try out a fantasy novel. Again, the cover promised a read comparable to Tolken (pretty high bar), and we were sorely dissapointed. Though neither of us have read much fantasy, we´re pretty sure that it was overly contrived and cliche even for a fantasy novel. The worst part is that it´s the 2nd in a trilogy, and now I have a small burning curiosity to know how it all ends.

8. State of Fear - Michael Chriton
We decided to go back to the easy read by an author we enjoyed. We didn´t know at the time that the Fox News station had been widely promoting this novel because it casts much doubt on the "certainty" of global warming. Having read the novel (which is again incredibly well researched), it seemed to us more to be a warning against "politicized science" and the tendency for the masses to get their scientific information from the media and not from scientific journals. In fact, much of what he criticised about the media seems to be exactly the kind of practices used by Fox... can we say fear mongerers?

9. ...a historical fiction based during the 100 years war...
Jon was the only one to read this one. Right about now, I had taken up knitting to pass the time. Apparently historical fictions are still just popular fiction, but with a little more research to paint a nice backdrop on the drama.

10. The Dragons´Nine Sons - Chris Roberson
A sci-fi fantasy that takes place in a future where the Chinese and Mexicans (actually, descendants of Incas who were never defeated by the Spanish) wage war in space. Jon was the only one to read it. "Pretty much garbage."

11. How It Works - ??
Printed in the 60s, it´s a collection of explanations of well... how things work. The best part was that it voiced the enthusiasm and optimism of the time. It would occasionally note that while the research was far off, no doubt that by 2000 we would all be riding around in hovercrafts.

We gave in and ended up purchasing some new books...
12. The War of the End of the World - Mario Vargas Llosa
Currently being read by Jon. So far, loving it.

13. One Hundred Years of Solitude - Gabriel Garcia Marquez
Currently being read by Kathy. So far, loving it.

I´m sure that we´ll end up with at least another couple under our belt before the trip is done. Happy reading everyone!

Sunday, March 14, 2010

Sachawasi

Before we get started, we apologize for the rushed blog... We are trying to get some info on this place posted before we head to the next (tomorrow!!)



Sachawasi was a little bit different from what the website lead us to believe. The original project that was integrated with a community did not work out, and Bruno ended up purchasing a rather large portion of private land within with to build a permaculture. Most of the work is done by Bruno and a rotation of volunteers, usually about 10 people but sometimes as many as 20.

The land having been only 3 years into cultivation, we arrived during a period of installation and transition. We ate our meals on top of tables made from the future doors of the main house set atop logs, and projects included wiring the house and the kitchen with electricity, and installing a sink.


Initially, much of the work was isolated to Bruno's farm, and we had very little interaction with the other members of the town save the occassional football game (though us Americans did not participate) and pleasantries as we made small purchases in town.

Luckily, we were there in time to clebrate Carnaval with them. We were invited to join in their opening celebrations, a night of dancing and music. The dancing started with some sense of rhythm and regular movement, but quickly would degenerate into a train of people running in and out of the building. All the while, the children of the town pelted us with water balloons. It was a great way for us to break the ice.

The next day, We were able to return with a gift for the town. We dressed up in burlap sacks and leaves and marched through the town playing music and dancing for them. According to Bruno, we were representing a much older native tribe of Bolivia, but I think we just ended up convincing the rest of the town that gringos really are crazy.

By the end of our stay, a system of work exchange was set up. WWOOF volunteers worked on the farms of some of the other people in town, and at some later date, they would work on Bruno's farm. Not only did this allow for for us to have more interaction with the townsfolk, but we also hope that over time, they will be able to learn from Bruno's philosophy of premaculture as a better alternative to their current agricultural methods.

The day-to-day was wonderful. Jon and I felt productive and stress free at the same time. Some of the work was very difficult (clearing an area of Amazon for a future camp location for a reunion of a Bolivian ecological group), and others very relaxing (harvesting "Taruma" or food for lunch).

When we were done with work, we bathed in the river and relaxed with each other. All in all, it's been one of the highlights of our trip. We would like to go back in 5 years or so to see how it has developed.

(Please don't judge the river in this photo. It's a bit murkier than usual due to some heavy rains the day before.)





My time on the computer is almost done, so I will end with this:

Skillz learned that are just as important as NumChuck Skillz to get the wimenz:
1. Machete skillz
2. We can tell and harvest Choclo vs. Maize
3. Japanese Rock Weaving (taught to us by a kid from Vermont. His teacher isn's sure if it's Japanese either... it's just where she saw the method)
4. Pachamanca!!
5. Kill and clean a chicken or duck
6. Other harvests: Taruma, Yukka, Yutuyuyu...
7. Medicinal herb skills (though the taste of Plantain leaves are so bad that I would rather just use my hydrochortizone...)
8. Bug bite relief skills - MUD!! And after 3 weeks of meticulously drinking a very bitter tea to repel the bugs, we learned that we should have been RUBBING IT ON OUR SKIN!!
9. Starting a fire (well, half of us learned this one...)
10. Catering a full meal for 20 people over an open campfire
11. SPANISH SKILLS. Very important words like "probar" as in when there is an amazing smell coming from the kitchen, one says "¡Quiero probar!"

Thursday, March 4, 2010

Bolivian Buses

We are now safe back in civilazion!!

Gathering our thoughts on the farm may take us some time... meanwhile, here is the story of our 12 hour bus ride turned 30.

We got on a 5pm bus out of Apolo to La Paz (named "Suavecito"), a 12 hour ride, getting us into the city by morning and saving us a night at a hostel. We were pretty lucky to have been able to get the tickets, since there was a bus strike just before and a planned strike for just after the day of our trip.

The trip started fairly well, with the standard uncomfortable seats and odd smells (one lady was transporting a poor chicken the whole way in a heavy plastic bag). Then, only four hours out of Apolo, the bus came to a halt. At some point in the day, there was a major rock slide blocking the road.

There was little to do but to wait. There is a crew assigned to each portion of the road, and we were assured that they would be out soon enough with the back hoe...

By morning, no one had arrived, and no new news, just more assurances that they would be out soon enough. There was another bus stuck on the other side of the slide, equally frustrated and hungry. Some men got out and started moving some of the smaller rocks and brush away.

To deal with the hunger, Jon and I found a small tienda selling nothing but candy and soda. We stuffed ourselves with Cremocitas (a HORRIBLE thing to do to your stomache after 3 weeks of predominantly healthy, organic, vegetarian eating) and soda. Needless to say, I got dirahea. More on that later...

By noon, we had four buses and two jeeps full of frustrated people. The men had already started putting their back bones into clearing the road, using nothing but makeshift tools of fallen trees and a 1.24" rope to move boulders close to two tons in weight. When the work was nearly complete, four men sent to clear the road finally arrived, armed with nothing but shovels and wearing sandals. Hurrah... our saviors.

Some people have had negative experiences with Bolivians, but we´ve found that for the most part, they are incredibly friendly. Most strange reactions are simply due to the fact that they aren´t quite sure what to make of us tourists. After everyone working together to clear the road, some of the other bus riders shared their bread and fruit with us.

And finally we are off!! So, the dirahrea was slowly gurgling it´s way down my stomache when we finally come to a rest stop in a small town. We stop for dinner, only to find out that they can´t serve us all. About 10 of us didn´t get to eat (including us gringos).

When I ask for a public restroom, I am told to go around the building. Around the building is an allyway leading to a field where people seem to just throw their trash. While I had gotten accostomed to (and even sometimes prefer) "el baño natural", going in a city field lit up by a street light was something very different...

We wandered around the town to finally find a small tienda selling more Cremocitas, and luckily also some small bread and cans of sardines. mmm...

Once back on the bus, which had up until now been playing pop music, the driver decides to change the entertainment, and puts in a DVD of footage of cock-fighting... for 3 hours... definitely the biggest downer of the entire bus ride.

We finally arrive in La Paz at two AM. Luckily Jesus (a friend we made on the bus) helped us find a cab and a hostel. (There is currently a strike on all buses and taxis that started this morning, so most hostels were full and guests aren´t likely to leave anytime soon.)

All in all, NOT the worst bus ride we´ve had in South America. After the 48 hours turned 60 to Buenos Aires with no air conditioning, this ride was a piece of cake.

We didn´t take pictures of the rock slide, but we were pretty closely located this waterfall. Had the trip gone on without delays, we would have missed a lot of the scenery...

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

See you in 3 weeks!!

FYI...

We will be MIA for the next 3 weeks while volunteering at a Qeshwa village in Parque Nacional Medidi.

For more information on the farm and their premaculture project, go to www.sachawasi.org

Sunday, January 31, 2010

Salar de Uyuni

Being in a 4x4 for 4 days and seeing so many different lagunas and flamingos gives the average tourist the feeling of deja vu. I am no super tourist, and found myself in the same camp as many of the people that we had talked to to figure out if the tour was for us. Fortunately along with the sameness of the lagunas and flamingos there was a huge variety of other things to see.

This is an area that is toxic. These geysers don´t erupt as consistently as ¨Old Faithful¨ but they sure were interesting to look at. We were only able to stay here for a short time though because of the toxic atmosphere. It´s funny to see someone lay on there stomach to get as close as they can when they know that the fumes are toxic.

I figured you all could use a picture of a cute little baby llama. Really. This little baby was hard to corner because of his protective mamma llama, but he finally gave up the good picture. The elusive vicuna, was much harder to take a picture of. Vicuna´s were everywhere, but impossible to get a good photo of. Imagine an antelope, sleek and slender with a long matchstick neck and a tiny llama head on top. Thats a vicuna. And they run like antelope, but with a long goofy neck flailing about.























And here it is, The Salt Flats of Uyuni. This is the selling point of the whole trip. These pictures are of the Ojos de Agua (eyes of water), an ostrich thing that lives on an inhabitable island in the salt flats, the crew, and a great 6am sunrise.


Kathy and I hemmed and hawed when we first thought about doing this tour. If we had known all the other things that we were going to see there would have been no decision to make, it is so beautiful, diverse and amazing. If you are ever in Bolivia and miss the chance to do this...then you missed out. Really.

Saturday, January 30, 2010

Approaching Salar de Uyuni

In Southwest Bolivia there is a province called Potosi. Aside from the city Potosi, which had the richest silver mines in history, there is also an incredibly diverse and seemingly hostile environment. Not to mention beautiful. In this area there is an enormous amount of strange and wonderful things to see. Thats why we took nearly 400 pictures in less than 4 days.

Our tour started at the super early hour of 9 am. Paired up in a 1990´s Nissan Patrol with our blind date travel companions, Lance and Simon. Our captain, driver, safety officer, guide and early morning motivater was Jaime(Hi Me). And last but not least, probably most important, is Sara, our executive chef and doler outer of snacks and candy.



This is what an oasis looks like. And I would say life here is still less than easy. Being in a 4x4, running over unpaved and rough roads for hours at a time is really not that fun, but every time you stop there is a great reason. At this oasis there was such a wonderful contrast between the windswept volcanic wasteland and the realatively lush and green spring that fed the llamas and wild vicunas.


On the first day we reached the highest peak that we would have to bear. It was 4855 meters high. Which is, according to google, 15,930 some odd feet high. It´s hard to breath up there. But according to Jaime we were all ¨mas fuerte¨, which means ¨thanks for not being cry babies about the altitude sickness¨.
An interesting thing about the elevation and the vehicles was that Jaime had to adjust the timing every time the elevation changed more than about 1500 meters.

This is me playing basketball with some children at the first village that we stayed at. The other people playing basketball are our competition. Believe me there is competition, because there are no less than about 20 4x4´s from Tupiza and 60 or so from Uyuni all doing the same thing we are. So after the first sleepless night we woke up at an ungodly 4am to get some breakfast and get out the door. Jaime was great because we never felt rushed and we never had a zillion other tourists ruining our pictures.


If you have ever wondered where Salvador Dali recieved his inspiration for many of his surreal landscapes it was here. Being able to see the Arbol de Piedra, the surrounding desert, and the surrounding volcanoes that rained down all the interesting rock formations was my favorite part of the 4 day trip.


This is Laguna Colorada which is colored red. It is colored red from all the minerals and such from the volcanoes. The whole are has incredible amounts of mineral deposits and the small lagunas that exist are blue from minerals unknown to me, red from I believe algae and green from magnesium.

Tuesday, January 26, 2010

What water shortage?


Much delayed, here is our posting on the Iguazu falls, which we saw from Argentina. Alas, no Brazil on this trip.

We were definitely amazed at the sheer power and imensity of the falls. Never having been to Niagara, neither of us have any basis of comparison. It really is a sight to see this much water in motion.

I´ve never really been a fan of an endless series of waterfall photos... Here´s a video to give you a better idea of the scale of the falls. ***After trying for over an hour, I gave up on the video. Sorry folks.***

That tiny boat filled with people is going onto the convergance point of 3 smaller falls (Salto San Martin, Salto Mbigua, and Salto... something I can´t read), which pales in comparison to the main attraction: Garganta del Diablo. That was actually so huge, that we couldn´t get a decent picture of it.

Sadly, we weren´t able to take the boat ride, which, depending on the specific route, cost anywhere from two to three times the entrance fee. In addition to being a general tourist trap (forgeign visitors also pay almost 4x the price of Argentinian residents), there was a surprisingly informative walk through area describing the local flora-fauna, it's indigenous history, and more importantly, the decline of the amazon over the generations and the need to preserve it.



Okay... one more picture just for kicks...

Sunday, January 3, 2010

What a town...


A few words about where we are staying: Hotel Carley. Although it´s a "hotel" it's about half the price of any of the other places here with great charm. "Charm" should be understood as saggy mattresses, little temperature control, minimally stocked kitchens, and great atmosphere. The bathrooms bear mentioning, which have showerheads coming right out of the walls over the toilets. If so inclined, you should pee, shower, and brush your teeth all at once.



If you´re lucky enough to get down here sometime soon, you just might also get to meet Adrien. An artist and a resident here, he meets everyone who comes in the doors and makes sure to introduce anyone worth meeting to each other.

It's located right at the heart of things in San Telmo, so there is almost always something going on outside (the weekly antique fair is happening at this very moment). For New Year's, residents at the hotel had a pot-luck and then headed outside to watch the fireworks. Safety laws be damned, they were shooting them off right above our heads, raining occassional little lead pellets down on the onlookers.


And of course, what is a party without dancing? Bands played in the square well into the night, my favorite being the drummers. The style was a blend of Brazilian and African influence and was so raw with energy everyone had to dance (even Jon!).

We´ll be heading out of here in a couple of days, and I am not looking forward to heading up to the heat, or leaving all the cats. This one that we encountered in the botanical garden was my temporary Lewis replacement for a few minutes. Much like Lewis, he took a swat at me after he was done with my services.

As it turns out, many of the cats that roam the cemetaries and parks are abandoned. It has been an increasing problem, and signs have been posted that the cats are NOT fed by the city. There seems to be a general distaste for neutering animals in South America, and in Buenos Aires, people have been dropping off kittens at the parks assuming that they are being cared for. Even when I ask locals why they don´t just have their animals fixed, I get a shrug for a response.



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Note: The painting below was on a huge wall inside the MALL as part of their permanent decor! ...damn American Puritanical values!

Friday, January 1, 2010

To the zoo!

Earlier this week we had the opportunity to go to the Buenos Aires Zoo. I don´t particularly like zoo´s, but am drawn to them for some reason or another. I usually leave feeling mildly ashamed, and sadend for the larger animals and the predator types as well.


With that said I do enjoy seeing animals up close and I fall in love with all the cute things that I come into contact with. The creature on the left was particularly cute. I´m not sure what it is, but it was sort of like an otter and a rat combined. They ran all over the zoo and we were encouraged to feed them biscuits that were on sale for 5 pesos a bucket. Which we chose to not buy. But if you see children feeding the animals you can usually wait until they scare all of them away and then pick up two or three biscuits for later use.

The zoo had an abundance of pettable animals from chickens and normal barnyard animals to some rather interesting gazelle and antelope like animals as well.